Summer Blend V2

Colombia Inza Cauca
El Salvador San Jose Ataco
Uganda White Nile

Flavour: White chocolate, passion fruit, berry spice
Body: medium, high
Roast: light — medium
Acidity: yellow plums
Brewing method: espresso, Mokapot, pourover
Varietal(s):Caturra, Colombia, Castillo, Pacas, Sarchimor, SL 14 & Catimor
Processing: Wet processed
Altitude: 1 250 — 1 800 masl

We are pleased to introduce our second blend of the season. This blend (Summer Blend V2) is a slight variation of V1. Perfect for the summer, this blend has a fruity acidity and flavour to it.

Colombia Inza Cauca – coffee drying shelves

Colombia Inza Cauca

Association: Asociación de Productores de Café del Oriente Caucano (ASORCAFE)
Varietals(s): Mostly Caturra (70%+) w/Colombia & Castillo
Processing: Fully washed & dried on parabolic and raised beds
Altitude:  1 500 – 1 800 masl
Owner: 52 small holder farmers
Town: Pedregal and San Antonio
Region: Inzá, Cauca

The municipality of Inzá is located in the corner of the Department of Cauca, bordering with Tolima and Huila and looking out to the west over the Pacific Ocean. Situated on the “Macizo Colombiano” (the Colombian Plateau), which surrounds the high peaks of Tolima and Huila, the region is an important source of water and wildlife, in addition to being prime coffee growing land.

The association of coffee growers, ASORCAFE, was founded in 2004 by 10 coffee growers with an entrepreneurial spirit who were tired of private parchment buyers who were paying them below national prices. The region’s violent past, with a heavy presence of FARC guerrillas, had historically prevented the FNC (Colombia’s excellent national coffee board) and specialty-focused exporters from establishing a presence in the region. As violence has diminished, it has enabled the growers in the region to seek increased access to markets for quality, not only taking advantage of the region’s wonderful coffee-growing conditions but also the economic resource that nearby tourist destinations bring (for instance, the World Heritage Site “Parque Nacional Arqueológico de Tierradentro”).

El Salvador San Jose Ataco

El Salvador San Jose Ataco

Farm: Finca San José
Varietal(s): Pacas & Sarchimor
Processing: Dry pulped, fermented & washed; dried on raised beds (parihuelas)
Altitude: 1 250 masl
Owner: Cayro, S.A. de C.V.
Town: Apaneca
Region: Apaneca-Ilamatepec, Ahuachapán
Country: El Salvador Total size of farm:  60 hectares
Area under coffee: 50 hectares

Like so many coffee farms in the region – Finca San José had been virtually abandoned for many years. Years of coffee price volatility combined with the appearance of coffee leaf rust in the region has made farming coffee a losing proposition in many producers’ eyes. San José was an old farm that had changed hands on many occasions, with very little love being spent despite its ideal location. Rolando, however, saw the farm’s potential. As part of his wider growth plan, he acquired the farm and immediately set about renovating 50 hectares of the farm’s poorly maintained coffee trees. The farm kept its original name – but everything else changed.

Rolando is passionate about learning and experimentation, which has led him to experiment with new processes and practices. As of 2017, the farm is experimenting with extended and anaerobic fermentation. He is also looking at the possibility of establishing a drying greenhouse, so the drying process is more uniform.  Although the farm is already very advanced with regards to agricultural practice, Rolando still has great plans for the future and always maintains an innovative outlook. He plans to renovate 10% of the farm annually, replanting with high quality varietals that are also rust resistant – always looking towards improving the face of El Salvador’s coffee.

Uganda White Nile Coffee Seedlings

Uganda White Nile

Partner: Kawacom Paidha Sustainable Project
Varietal(s): SL 14 & Catimor
Processing: Fully washed & sun dried (finished in mechanical driers)
Altitude of farms: 1 450 – 1 800 masl
Owner: Various smallholder farmers
Town: Nyagak-Paidha, Zombo district
Region: Northern Uganda – West Nile region

The White Nile project gains its name from the famous Murchison Falls (Kalangala in local dialect), which lie only a few kilometres away. It is here that the mighty River Nile squeezes itself into a 7 meter volcanic rock stretch, forming white foam as it proceeds, hence turning into a ‘White’ Nile as it pours into Lake Albert.   

Kawacom – our suppliers exporting partner in Uganda – initiated their White Nile Organic Coffee project in 1998 in an effort to harness the potential for high quality Arabica in the area. By promoting the cultivation of Arabica coffee, training farmers in agricultural techniques and best practices, educating widely regarding the importance of harvest and post harvest activities, and building top-notch washing stations, the project hopes to put Uganda ‘on the map’ as the next big destination for speciality coffee.

Finca Gamboa has been in Martin Gutierrez’s family for several generations and Martin inherited the farm around 40 years ago. At 19 hectares, the farm is the largest in a group of smaller farms that Martin and his three brothers own. They founded the Montañas del Diamante mill several years ago and work together to produce and mill the best quality coffee possible.  

A look at the specs

Farm: Finca Gamboa
Varietal(s): Caturra and Cataui
Processing: Between yellow and red honey, then dried on patios
Altitude: 1 750 to 1 800 metres above sea level
Owner: Martin Gutierrez Monge
Town: Santa Maria
Region: Tarrazu
Country: Costa Rica

The honey process in Costa Rica

During a competition known as the golden harvest in Costa Rica, a farmer named Juan Ramon Alvarado submitted two coffees that were well received and also scored highly in blind cuppings, with tasty berry like flavour profiles. These coffees placed first and second in the competition and yes ladies and gentlemen, they turned out to be honey processed coffees.

This win surprised many and allowed for the proliferation of honey processed coffees across Costa Rica. 

Honey processed coffee is also seen as an adaption of the pulped natural method  which was popularized in Brazil. The big difference with honey processed coffee is that they can purposefully leave on as much of the mucilage( fruit flesh) as they like. Honey processed coffees are normally classified into 4 major designations, noted by colour: White, Yellow, Red and Black. The darker the colour, the more mucilage is left on the coffee parchment. In this case, 70% of the mucilage is kept intact, and would therefore be classified between yellow and red honey.

The word honey is used as a descriptor for the way the mucilage feels as it’s drying in the sun, as it is sticky to the touch, just like honey.

Costa Rica Finca Gamboa

Conclusion 

In the cup you can expect a custard/caramel sweetness with a cherry note and lavender-like aroma. Smooth with a berry like acidity. There’s a limited amount of this one, so get some while you can.

Until next time.

Summer Blend 2018

Tanzania Kitamu
El Salvador San Jose Ataco
Uganda White Nile

Flavour: Marzipan, orange marmalade, dried fruit
Body: Medium, buttery
Roast: Light – medium
Acidity: Pleasant, apple
Suitable for: Plunger, Mokapot, Espresso, Siphon
Varietal(s): Bourbon N39, Kent KP 423, Pacas, Sarchimor, SL14, Catimor
Processing: Wet processed
Altitude: 1 250 to 1 800 metres above sea level

Tanzania Kitamu

Tanzania Kitamu

Farm: Shari Cooperative Society 
Varietal(s): Bourbon N39 & Kent KP 423 
Processing: Fully washed & sun dried on African beds
Altitude: 1 500 to 1 800 metres above sea level  
Owner: Various smallholder farmers 
Town: Shari Region:  Hia District, Kilimanjaro
Country: Tanzania 
Total size of farm: Less than 5 hectares on average 
Coop members: 200+ members delivering cherry to the Shari Cooperative CPU

The word ‘Kitamu’ is Swahili for “sweet” or “tasty”, an expression often used in Tanzania when cupping to say that a coffee is very nice, indeed. It is no coincidence that this AB lot from Tanzania’s Shari Cooperative group bears the name. As one of the best lots produced this year by the 200 member strong group, it has undoubtedly earned that moniker.    

With good labour practices and a great deal of natural forest in the surrounding area, Shari’s sustainability credentials are strong. In fact, some 20% of the region is already under natural conservation. 

El Salvador San Jose Ataco

El Salvador San Jose Ataco

Farm: Finca San José 
Varietal(s): Pacas & Sarchimor 
Processing: Dry pulped, fermented & washed; dried on raised beds (parihuelas) Altitude: 1,250 metres above sea level 
Owner: Cayro, S.A. de C.V. 
Town: Apaneca 
Region: Apaneca-Ilamatepec, Ahuachapán 
Country: El Salvador Total size of farm:  60 hectares 
Area under coffee: 50 hectares  

Like so many coffee farms in the region – Finca San José had been virtually abandoned for many years. Years of coffee price volatility combined with the appearance of coffee leaf rust in the region has made farming coffee a losing proposition in many producers’ eyes. San José was an old farm that had changed hands on many occasions, with very little love being spent despite its ideal location. Rolando, however, saw the farm’s potential. As part of his wider growth plan, he acquired the farm and immediately set about renovating 50 hectares of the farm’s poorly maintained coffee trees. The farm kept its original name – but everything else changed.  

Rolando is passionate about learning and experimentation, which has led him to experiment with new processes and practices. As of 2017, the farm is experimenting with extended and anaerobic fermentation. He is also looking at the possibility of establishing a drying greenhouse, so the drying process is more uniform.  Although the farm is already very advanced with regards to agricultural practice, Rolando still has great plans for the future and always maintains an innovative outlook. He plans to renovate 10% of the farm annually, replanting with high quality varietals that are also rust resistant – always looking towards improving the face of El Salvador’s coffee.

Uganda White Nile Coffee Seedlings

Uganda White Nile

Partner: Kawacom Paidha Sustainable Project 
Varietal(s): SL 14 & Catimor 
Processing: Fully washed & sun dried (finished in mechanical driers) 
Altitude of farms: 1 450 to 1 800 metres above sea level 
Owner: Various smallholder farmers 
Town: Nyagak-Paidha, Zombo district 
Region: Northern Uganda – West Nile region 

The White Nile project gains its name from the famous Murchison Falls (Kalangala in local dialect), which lie only a few kilometres away. It is here that the mighty River Nile squeezes itself into a 7 meter volcanic rock stretch, forming white foam as it proceeds, hence turning into a ‘White’ Nile as it pours into Lake Albert.   

Kawacom – our suppliers exporting partner in Uganda – initiated their White Nile Organic Coffee project in 1998 in an effort to harness the potential for high quality Arabica in the area. By promoting the cultivation of Arabica coffee, training farmers in agricultural techniques and best practices, educating widely regarding the importance of harvest and post harvest activities, and building top-notch washing stations, the project hopes to put Uganda ‘on the map’ as the next big destination for speciality coffee. 

Until next time.

Onze Mil Virgens means ‘Eleven Thousand Virgins’. People in the region say that Onze Mil Virgens previously belonged to a bigger farm in the rural area of Rio Paranaíba that had around 11,000 acres. It was a ‘Virgen’ forest (The Cerrado biome) at the time. When it was divided into many farm lots, the sections that got separated off kept the name. 

A look at the specs –

Farm: Onze Mil Virgens (part of Sao Luiz Estate Coffee)
Varietal(s):  Red Cataui
Processing:  Honey ( Mucilage kept entirely intact)
Altitude: 1 160 metres above sea level
Owner: Ana Cecilia Velleso (Sao Luiz Estate)
Town: Rio Paranaiba
Region: Cerrado Mineiro

Onze Mil Virgens has been in Ana Cecilia Velloso’s family for four generations. Ana is an architect by trade but was born into coffee, where her great-grandfather, Miguel Veloso, was a pioneer in the Carmo do Paranaiba region. When he first established São Luiz Estate in 1969 (of which Onze Mil Virgens is part) , the Cerrado Mineiro was agriculturally underdeveloped. Manoel Velloso dos Reis, Ana’s grandfather, was also a pioneer. He took over from his father, strengthened the family’s legacy, and founded the town’s first agricultural cooperative. From there, the families reputation for quality and innovation grew.

Harvesting

Harvesting is mostly mechanized on Onze Mil Virgens with the exception of certain lots- like this one (Lot 33). The farm has plots of Yellow and Red Catuaí, Red Catucaí, Yellow Icatú, IPR 100, and Arará. Every lot is separated according to its varietal, and the harvest is planned with the intention of keeping the varietal lots seperate. The team at São Luiz have been thoroughly trained so as to ensure that the ripest cherries are picked and to minimise the picking of under-ripe beans. 

Brazil Onze Mil Virgens

Red Catuai

The cultivar was created in 1949 from a crossing of yellow Caturra and Mundo Novo, and initially called H-2077.The variety was released in Brazil 1972 after pedigree selection (selection of individual plants through successive generations) and is in wide cultivation there. (Source- www.coffeeresearch.org). The name means ‘Very Good’ in Tupi-Guarani language.

Processing

Ana and her team were surprised with the amount of sweet and sticky mucilage remaining on the coffee parchment after the coffee was pulped. The team then decided to use a modified honey process, where the mucilage is kept entirely intact, rather than placing the coffee in a demucilager to determine the level mucilage to be left on the coffee parchment.

This lot was taken to the patio and spread in a thin, one bean layer for sun-drying. The coffee stayed one week on the patio and was regularly turned to prevent excessive fermentation. After a week, the layer was made a little thicker to reduce moisture loss. When it reached the proper moisture levels, it was taken directly to the warehouse, where it was kept in parchment ( the last shell like layer surrounding the bean) for 60 days. 

Conclusion 

In the cup expect milk chocolate, red grape and fig. Medium bodied and smooth. A high quality and tasty daily drinker that’s excellent value for money. Until next time.

A look at the specs of these two delicious coffees-

Gigesa Guji
Varietal(s):  Heirloom (Arabica)
Processing:  Fully washed & dried on raised beds
Altitude: 1,800 to 2,000 metres above sea level
Owner: Various smallholder farmers
Town: Denbi Uddo, Shakisso District
Region:  Oromia, Guji

Sidamo Werka
Varietal(s): Heirloom (Arabica)
Processing: Natural
Altitude: 1 900 to 2 050 metres above sea level
Owner: Various smallholder farmers
Town: Werka, West Arsi Zone
Region: Nensebo Woreda, Sidamo

The Guji region

Like Yirgacheffe, coffees from the Guji area were previously categorised together with coffees from Sidamo (a very wide geographical classification encompassing much of central-south Ethopia). However Guji coffees are quite distinct from either Yirgacheffe or Sidamo. Located in southern Sidamo, the people of Guji have a long tradition of coffee cultivation. They are called the Oromo people and the hills and landscape allow for particular cultivars to develop in this region.

The Sidamo region

Sidamo (or Sidama – the latter refers to the Sidama people, the former is what used to be known as Sidamo province) covers a large area in Southern Ethiopia spreading through the fertile highlands south from Lake Awasa in the Rift Valley. It is made up of over 20 different administrative areas, or ‘ woredas ’, with varying microclimates and altitudes. There is a big variety of both grades and cup profiles that end up labeled as Sidamo. The famous Yirgacheffe region geographically lies within Sidamo, though it is ultimately classified as its own coffee region.   Most central-southern coffees from Ethiopia are considered ‘Sidamo’ and are then classified further using certain town names or micro-regions.

Ethiopia Gigesa Guji washed

It’s all in the Genes

These coffees, and Ethiopian coffees in general are unique in that they are always composed of heirloom varieties and not too mention it’s the birthplace of Arabica ( Southern Sudan is a likely candidate for that title too).

The genetic database for the Arabica species in Ethiopia is the largest the world has to offer. Aaron Davis and colleagues from Kew Botanical gardens in the UK have been working for a number of years now in Ethiopia in classifying various varieties of Arabica, primarily as a means to develop new hybrids that can combat the deleterious effects of climate change but also with the hope of finding new and exciting varieties. This is a necessary step to prevent early extinction of the Arabica species.

Conclusion

This is an excellent opportunity to taste a wet processed and natural processed Ethiopian coffee side by side. In the cup you can expect-
Gigesa Guji – Crème caramel, orange, vanilla pod. Light and velvety with a tart, apple-like acidity.
Werka – Nougat, litchi , blackcurrant. Buttery, with a tangy, berry-like acidity.

Until next time.

Gititu means, itself, ‘big forest’ in Kikuyu, one of the native languages of the region. Although- These days, there is not a great deal of dense  forested areas in this part of Kenya.

Gititu FCS is one of the oldest cooperatives in Kiambu, being founded in the 1970s. Today, the cooperative operates 8 washing stations within Kiambu. The total active membership is around 5,200 small holder farmers, but only a portion (around 500) of these deliver to the Gititu Factory, which processes around 2,500 metric tonnes of coffee annually.

A look at the specs-

Mill: Gititu Factory; Gititu Farmers Cooperative Society
Varietal(s): Mostly SL28, SL34 & Ruiru 11
Processing: Fully washed & dried on raised beds
Altitude: 1 600 to 1 700 metres above sea level
Owner: approx. 500 smallholder members deliver to the washing station; FCS = 5,000+ active members
Town: Kiambu
Region: Kiambu County
Country: Kenya
Total size of farms: 920 total hectares (all members); <1 hectare per farmer
Area under coffee: <1 hectare on average

Kenya Gititu AB

A note on varieties in Kenya

Coffee production in Kenya has dropped since the 1980s. The condition has been worsened by climate change. The biggest challenge is the changing dynamics of coffee pests and diseases. Variety improvement through breeding is believed to be one of the most sustainable ways of reducing production costs and mitigating climate change and its multitude of effects. Over the years, considerable success has been made in Arabica coffee breeding to improve yields, quality and resistance. Kenya produces mainly Arabica from five varieties. These include three traditional varieties namely SL28, SL34 and K7, all of which are also susceptible to the major coffee diseases, and two improved varieties namely Ruiru 11 and Batian. Owing to the current production challenges and the rising demand of Kenyan coffee in the world market, improved Arabica varieties are largely replacing traditional varieties on a large scale in Kenya.

A note on the auction system in Kenya

Most of Kenya’s farmers currently have yet to establish a direct link to the international market, though this situation is gradually changing. The auction system, meanwhile, continues to dominate and is still how 85-95 percent of Kenya’s coffee is sold.

The auction platform in Kenya is considered to be the most transparent pricing system for green coffees anywhere in the coffee industry and certainly helped form the model for the Cup of Excellence auctions. 

The auction is held every Tuesday during the harvest season at the Nairobi Coffee Exchange which has been operating since 1933. The Sample Room at the Nairobi coffee exchange houses literally hundreds of Kenyan Coffee samples, which are then offered at auction every week.  All auctions are aligned with the early and late coffee crops.
The country’s location relative to the equator allows for two harvests per year, March- July and September to December.

Conclusion

In the cup expect browned butter, stewed fruit and hibiscus with a creamy mouthfeel and tangy acidity. There’s a definite umami character to this cup, which will make you go back for more.

Enjoy the brews.

As some of you may already know Kenya is on the top of my coffee origin list. It seems common to have a transition of ones cup-profile preference as you evolve in your exploration of specialty coffee.

My preference over the last 10 years looked a little like this-
Indonesia; Guatemala; Bolivia/Ethiopia; Colombia/Kenya; Rwanda; Kenya; Ethiopia; Kenya; Rwanda; Kenya.

Yup. Not a typo. Definitely a trend. But, everyone has their own preference.

A look at the specs

Mill: Ndundu Factory; Thiririka Farmers Cooperative Society
Varietal(s): Sl28, SL34 & some Ruiru 11 & Batian
Processing: Fully washed & dried on raised beds
Altitude: 1 600 to 1 900 meters above sea level
Owner: Approx. 800 members deliver to washing station; FCS=Approx. members 2,400 active
Town: Gatundu & Thika
Region: Kiambu County
Country: Kenya
Total size of farm: <1 hectare (total 410 hectares for all members)
Area under coffee: <1 hectare

Kenya Ndundu AB workers

This lot was produced by numerous smallholder farmers, all of whom are members of the Thiririka Farmers Cooperative Society, delivering to Ndundu Coffee Factory (another name for washing station in Kenya).

Ndundu is a Gikuyu term for ‘agreement or unity’, and is often used as a phrase/command to encourage people to work together. The Gikuyu are a Bantu-speaking people who live in the highland area of south-central Kenya, near Mount Kenya.

The Ndundu Factory is well known for producing exceptionally high quality coffee. Meticulous processing plays a massive role to produce green that is has a flawless starting point for us Roasters. Without it we wouldn’t  have much to work with. Processing should be seen as the most important determining factor in the flavour profile of a coffee, and the Ndundu factory has it nailed.

A note about the varieties

In the 1950’s, several extremely successful hybrids from Scott Laboratories were introduced in Kenya and these have largely replaced the original French Bourbon stock which had been brought to Kenya from Ethiopia. The most well-known varieties are SL28 and SL34, both of which are Bourbon varieties and lend Kenya the distinctive big body and winey blackcurrant notes that it’s so well known for. Although- this can vary depending on roast profile, extraction and other attributes from cultivation and processing. Other varieties, such as Batian and Ruiri, have been introduced mainly for disease and pest resistance.

Conclusion

Wine-gum sweetness with notes of raspberry and tangerine. This coffees acidity is fantastic-effervescent and berry like, and seems to be quite versatile across various brew methods.

Enjoy the brews.

Rwanda Musasa Dukunde Kawa Nkara

Historically this coffee has affectionately been known as Musasa. We’ve been buying from this co-op since the beginning of time (2009 if my memory serves me right). And for a good reason – it’s consistently awesome.

A look at the specs

Washing Station: Nkara
Varietal: 100% Red Bourbon
Processing:  Fully washed & sun dried on raised beds( African Beds)
Altitude: Washing Station 1,800 metres above sea level
Farms: 1 800 to 2 000 metres above sea level
Owner: Musasa Dukunde Kawa Cooperative – some 2,100+ smallholder farmers
Region: Ruli Sector, Gakenke District of Northern Province
Prizes (All Washing Stations): 2008; #13 Rwanda COE 2010; # 7 Rwanda COE 2011; #24 & #26 Rwanda COE 2012; #18 & #25 Rwanda COE 2013; # 2 Rwanda COE 2014; #8 Rwanda COE 2015, #21 Rwanda COE

Rwanda Musasa coffee drying

Average Farm Size

Most of the cooperative members own less than a quarter of a hectare of land and cultivate an average of only 250 – 300 coffee trees. Maize and beans are other common crops coffee farmers in Rwanda grow.

Washing stations and differences in cup profile

A washing station is a central point for processing coffee cherries down to the seed encapsulated in parchment. Washing stations are normally equipped with pulpers, fermentation tanks and ample drying area. Processing Musasa Dukunde Kawa owns three washing stations and is known as one of Rwanda’s larger cooperatives, with 2,148 members. The Nkara washing station was established in 2007 and today processes 15-20% of the cooperative’s coffee. We’ve now, over the years, purchased from all three washing stations, and it seems that there is not much difference in cup profile between them. Its so hard to say as all of these delicious coffees are all wet-processed and Red Bourbon. However Nkara does seem a bit more refined than the last two washing stations we’ve purchased from Mbilima and Ruli.

Rwanda Musasa Coffee Cherries

A note on geographical distinction in Rwanda.

Rwanda itself is a very small country and it’s almost impossible to come to any conclusions regarding geographical distinction. Regional differences in cup profile could be there, and if they are, they are likely very slight. I think part of the confusion is that the whole country pretty much grows Red Bourbon as they believe it’s the best varietal suited to Rwanda. And as you have likely gathered by now Red bourbon is known for its excellent balance and sweetness.

Most differences in cup profile with coffee from different regions in Rwanda will likely be perceived due to cultivation and processing practices.

Conclusion

In the cup, expect Honeycomb, red cherry and gooseberry with an elegant citrus acidity and velvety mouthfeel. A good purchase when looking at pleasing a varied crowd.

Enjoy the brews.

Winter Blend 2018

Brazil Sao Silvstre
Tanzania Mbeya
Uganda Sipi Falls

FLAVOUR: Caramelised sugar, cherry, brown spice
BODY: Medium-full, chewy
ROAST: Light- Medium
ACIDITY: Mellow, papaya
SUITABLE FOR: Espresso, plunger, Mokapot
PROCESSING: Pulped natural, fully washed
VARIETALS: Various
ALTITUDE: 1 250 – 2 000 masl

Brazil Sao Silvestre

Brazil Sao Silvestre

Fazenda São Silvestre has been farmed by the Andrade Brothers since 1991. It is located in the north of Minas Gerais, in an area known as the Cerrado Mineiro on the border with Bahia state.

The farm’s volcanic soils provide ideal conditions for growing the farm’s main varieties – Yellow Icatú, Yellow Bourbon and Típica.

Combined with the natural conditions of the region, meticulous crop management, forward-thinking crop planning and post-harvest selection, the final result from all Andrade family farms is excellent quality, award-winning coffees that are appreciated both within Brazil and internationally as some of the best coffee the country has to offer.

Tanzania Mbeya

Tanzania Mbeya

Mbeya is in southern Tanzania. The area around Mbeya town enjoys abundant and reliable rainfall  on rich volcanic soils. This area has been called the “Scotland of Africa”. The hills are clad in heather and bracken, but botanically they are more closely related to the Fynbos (fine bush) of South Africa’s Western Cape Province than the Highlands of Scotland.

The smallholder farmers of Mbeya are making some headway in the coffee industry, with more and more coffees that show exotic characteristics in their cup profile.

Uganda Sipi Falls – 3rd fall

Uganda Sipi Falls

The name hails from the local scenic landmark of Sipi Falls. This 3 phase waterfall plunges down the slopes of Mt Elgon – once thought to be the tallest in Africa due to its enormous base, which covers 3,500 square kilometers across Uganda and Kenya.

The locals believe that god lives on Mt. Elgon – far beyond where people venture – and that when he is happy, he delivers rain to the bountiful gardens clinging to the mountainside. Indeed, these green, fertile hillsides are very nearly divine territory for the production of potentially spectacular coffees, and producers are increasingly realizing their potential.

Michael Gehrken – the owner of the farm –  was born in Germany, and along with his wife Tina, have farmed Blackburn estate for over 20 years now. When they took over the farm, Blackburn’s coffee trees were entirely overgrown with vegetation indigenous to this beautiful area on the southern border of the Ngorongoro Crater.  A troop of baboons decided to set up camp in the main house too. They also occasionally roost overnight in the large mature trees at the north-west boundary of the farm and munch on coffee cherries to their delight. Of course, this is not good for business, and Michael frequently attempts to deter the troop – numbering more than a hundred individuals – as best he can.

Sounds like a scene out of ‘Planet of the Apes’, doesn’t it?

A look at the specs

Varietal(s):  Kent & Nyassa
Processing:  Fully washed & dried on African beds
Altitude: 1 760m to 1 950m
Owner: Michael Gehrken
Town: West of Oldeani
Region: Karatu District Country:  Tanzania
Total size of farm: Over 890 hectares
Area under coffee: 75 hectares (16%) 

Tina overseeing the drying stage

Joel and I took a trip to Tanzania a few years ago and visited Michael and Tina at Blackburn Estate for a few days. We explored the farm and operations by day and sipped on cognac on their porch in the evening as Michael told us stories of the early days of his life with Tina at Blackburn Estate.

He cautioned us to not walk around on the farm in the evening as lions would sometimes roam close by. Considering that we were basically on the outskirts of the Ngorongoro Crater, that was definitely possible. And indeed, we could see the multitude of wild beasts roaming the Crater from his front porch during the day.

The Ngorongoro Crater is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the Gehrken’s have set aside 80% of the estate’s land as wildlife preserve . Animals are entirely free to roam beyond the unfenced park boundaries, and lion, buffalo, elephant, leopard and many other species roam through the coffee and forest areas of the farm at night. 

They also regularly build coffee parchment and chili pyres around certain sections of the farm to deter elephants from damaging the coffee plants. Special bio-corridors have also been made to funnel animals away from the growing area.

Conclusion

In the cup expect cacao, red cherry and coconut with a syrupy body and mellow grape-like acidity. Pressurized brews work best- Mokapot, Espresso and Aeropress.

Until next time.

We were able to purchase two different varieties from Fazenda Passeio to taste side by side. Bourbon and Icatu. They are both Natural Processed coffees. In this style, processing flavour is generally highlighted, whereas with washed coffees genetic traits can be more easily identified. Nonetheless we wanted to know what the difference is.

I was fortunate to be able to visit Fazenda Passeio on my trip to Brazil last year October.

A look at the specs

Varietal(s): 100% Bourbon
Processing:  Natural
Altitude: 1 100 – 1 200 metres above sea level
Owner: Adolfo Henrique Vieira Ferreira
Town: Alfenas
Region:  Minas Gerais
Total size of farm:  130 hectares
Area under coffee: 130 hectares

Bourbon

The Bourbon variety was introduced to Brazil around 1860, and from there rapidly spread north into other parts of South and Central America. Bourbons will taste different depending on where it is grown.  African bourbons are generally more fruity and acidic. Central and South American bourbons seem to be less fruity and less acidic, with the cup showing an emphasis on more sweetness associated aroma compounds like chocolate, honey, marzipan, maple syrup, etc.

Bourbon is one of the highest quality varieties that I’ve ever encountered and is an absolute pleasure to roast and analyze as the different aspects of the cup-profile can be more clearly defined.

Icatu

Icatú was first developed in Brazil and is known for its high productivity and good disease resistance. Originally developed in 1985, it was only officially released in 1993 by the Instituto Agronômico de Campinas (IAC) in Campinas Brazil and has become widespread within the country since that time.

Icatu has a bit of a complicated genetic lineage. It is an Arabica- Robusta hybrid back crossed with Mundo Novo and Caturra. Simply the word robusta is enough to make some specialty coffee enthusiasts shudder, but actually, hybrids like these are still classified as Arabica due to its chromosome count and various other features. Farmers are increasingly adopting the use of disease and pest resistant varieties  as climate change ensues. Fungal and insect pathogens like coffee leaf rust(CLR) and coffee berry disease (CBD) are two of the greatest afflictions farmers have to endure.

We haven’t had much experience with isolated Icatu, which is one of the reasons we bought these two varieties at the same time to taste side- by side.

Preliminary results seem to indicate heavier associated flavour notes- compared to it’s Bourbon counterpart.

Conclusion

Bourbon – Dates, Black Grape, Cloves, slightly tangy and syrupy.
Icatu – Rum and raisin, fig, allspice, mellow acidity and slightly sticky mouthfeel.

What would you choose?

I’ll surprise you all and reveal that I actually prefer Icatu in this instance. This comparison has certainly reminded me to always keep an open mind. And of course, with coffee- I encourage you all to do the same. 

Until next time.

Lunji Estate was founded during Tanzania’s colonial era, in 1893, which was also the year the first coffee trees were planted on the farm.

The owner at the time was a German settler. He returned to Europe at the end of the WWI, leaving the management of the farm to the German Colonial Administrator, who ran it till the end of 1971. An Indian Family took ownership of the land thereafter until 1994.  Sometime during these years, the farm was named ‘Lunji,’ which the current owners believe came from “Ilunji”, an ancient name in Safwa (the local tribal language) for a common tree in the area.

A look at the specs

Farm: Lunji Estate
Varietal(s): Blue Mountain Bourbon, Blue Mountain Typica, Bourbon SL28, Bourbon N39, Kent, Pacamara
Processing: Fully washed & sun dried on African beds
Altitude: 1 600 to 1 650 meters above sea level
Owner: Clemens & Stella Maier & Thomas Plattner
Town: Ihombe
Region: Mbeya
Total size of farm: 340 hectares
Area under coffee: 94 hectares

Marko: Tanzania Lunji Estate coffee watchman

In 1994 Clemens Maier and Thomas Plattner purchased the farm from the previous owner. The farm wasn’t managed for several years and it became heavily dilapidated. Clemens and his wife, Stella, decided to revive the farm, but they knew it was going to be tough.  When they bought the farm over, the garden was a dense bush, with the grass standing 1 meter high. Family stories of 3 metre long cobras in the shed and puff-adders basking in the sun on the windows of the farmhouse are the norm. They basically had to rebuild the farm from scratch.

The farm is now thriving and they have plans to introduce Natural and Honey processed coffee by 2020. Preliminary tests in small batches have been incredibly positive. “Naturals” and “Honeys” out of African countries is a developing trend and we’re likely going to see a lot more alternative processing methods/techniques coming out in the years to come.

The Maier family take environmental stewardship seriously. Now 35% of the farm is already under conservation. They also endeavor to reforest sections of the Mbeya Range Forest Reserve, which partially borders the farm and is also the water catchment area for the whole community.

Most of the farm’s workers have worked on the farm for more than two decades and a number of them are descendants of people who had worked on the farm in the years past.

Conclusion

In the cup, expect sugar cane, passion fruit and cranberry with a vibrant citrus-apple like acidity. Composed of mostly super-high quality varieties with a strong genetic backbone, this coffee will not disappoint.

Until next time.

As a young man Javier Golondrino used to help his father pick coffee every season. When Javier turned 15, his father gifted him 1 000 trees. Since then, Javier has managed to grow his small parcel of land into a reasonably—sized farm of 2 hectares and now tends to 10 000 coffee trees, comprised of the varietals — Caturra and Colombia.

A look at the specs:

Farm: Finca La Loma
Varietal(s): Caturra & Colombia
Processing: 36 hours fermentation, fully washed & dried on patios and parabolic beds
Altitude: 1 983 meters above sea level
Owner: Javier Golondrino
Town: Palestina
Region: La Plata, Huila
Country: Colombia
Total size of farm: Approx. 2 hectares
Area under coffee: 1 hectare

Javier Golondrino the man himself

Processing approach on Finca La Loma

Javier hand harvests all his coffee, sorting out any underripe or damaged cherries before pulping. He then pulps each day’s picking on the same day it is picked. Finca La Loma is so small that two days worth of pickings are often combined into a single batch. Each day’s picking is pulped separately and the coffee picked on the second day is added to the first after 24 hours fermentation and then left to ferment in the tanks for another 12 hours. With this method of fermentation, the second batch raises the ph level of the batch, allowing longer fermentation times without excessive acetic acid production. This process is common with small farmers throughout Antioquia and Huila, who’s farms are so small that one day’s picking is often not sufficient to make up an entire lot.

The result from this approach to fermentation which is essentially a means of removing the sticky mucilage surrounding the coffee parchment after it’s been pulped- is appealing indeed. It has a sweetness that is reminiscent of a natural processed coffee with more clarity and an emphasis on variety- typically what you’d find from a traditional wet processed coffee.

In the cup, expect:

Sugar syrup, red plum and honeysuckle with a tangy, berry—like acidity and buttery mouthfeel. Fairly versatile in terms of brewing. Javier calls his small farm ‘La Loma’ which translates to ‘the hill’ in honor of the hill his farm lies on. Another great micro—lot from another passionate farmer.

Enjoy the brews.