Rwanda Musasa Dukunde Kawa Nkara

Historically this coffee has affectionately been known as Musasa. We’ve been buying from this co-op since the beginning of time (2009 if my memory serves me right). And for a good reason – it’s consistently awesome.

A look at the specs

Washing Station: Nkara
Varietal: 100% Red Bourbon
Processing:  Fully washed & sun dried on raised beds( African Beds)
Altitude: Washing Station 1,800 metres above sea level
Farms: 1 800 to 2 000 metres above sea level
Owner: Musasa Dukunde Kawa Cooperative – some 2,100+ smallholder farmers
Region: Ruli Sector, Gakenke District of Northern Province
Prizes (All Washing Stations): 2008; #13 Rwanda COE 2010; # 7 Rwanda COE 2011; #24 & #26 Rwanda COE 2012; #18 & #25 Rwanda COE 2013; # 2 Rwanda COE 2014; #8 Rwanda COE 2015, #21 Rwanda COE

Rwanda Musasa coffee drying

Average Farm Size

Most of the cooperative members own less than a quarter of a hectare of land and cultivate an average of only 250 – 300 coffee trees. Maize and beans are other common crops coffee farmers in Rwanda grow.

Washing stations and differences in cup profile

A washing station is a central point for processing coffee cherries down to the seed encapsulated in parchment. Washing stations are normally equipped with pulpers, fermentation tanks and ample drying area. Processing Musasa Dukunde Kawa owns three washing stations and is known as one of Rwanda’s larger cooperatives, with 2,148 members. The Nkara washing station was established in 2007 and today processes 15-20% of the cooperative’s coffee. We’ve now, over the years, purchased from all three washing stations, and it seems that there is not much difference in cup profile between them. Its so hard to say as all of these delicious coffees are all wet-processed and Red Bourbon. However Nkara does seem a bit more refined than the last two washing stations we’ve purchased from Mbilima and Ruli.

Rwanda Musasa Coffee Cherries

A note on geographical distinction in Rwanda.

Rwanda itself is a very small country and it’s almost impossible to come to any conclusions regarding geographical distinction. Regional differences in cup profile could be there, and if they are, they are likely very slight. I think part of the confusion is that the whole country pretty much grows Red Bourbon as they believe it’s the best varietal suited to Rwanda. And as you have likely gathered by now Red bourbon is known for its excellent balance and sweetness.

Most differences in cup profile with coffee from different regions in Rwanda will likely be perceived due to cultivation and processing practices.

Conclusion

In the cup, expect Honeycomb, red cherry and gooseberry with an elegant citrus acidity and velvety mouthfeel. A good purchase when looking at pleasing a varied crowd.

Enjoy the brews.

Winter Blend 2018

Brazil Sao Silvstre
Tanzania Mbeya
Uganda Sipi Falls

FLAVOUR: Caramelised sugar, cherry, brown spice
BODY: Medium-full, chewy
ROAST: Light- Medium
ACIDITY: Mellow, papaya
SUITABLE FOR: Espresso, plunger, Mokapot
PROCESSING: Pulped natural, fully washed
VARIETALS: Various
ALTITUDE: 1 250 – 2 000 masl

Brazil Sao Silvestre

Brazil Sao Silvestre

Fazenda São Silvestre has been farmed by the Andrade Brothers since 1991. It is located in the north of Minas Gerais, in an area known as the Cerrado Mineiro on the border with Bahia state.

The farm’s volcanic soils provide ideal conditions for growing the farm’s main varieties – Yellow Icatú, Yellow Bourbon and Típica.

Combined with the natural conditions of the region, meticulous crop management, forward-thinking crop planning and post-harvest selection, the final result from all Andrade family farms is excellent quality, award-winning coffees that are appreciated both within Brazil and internationally as some of the best coffee the country has to offer.

Tanzania Mbeya

Tanzania Mbeya

Mbeya is in southern Tanzania. The area around Mbeya town enjoys abundant and reliable rainfall  on rich volcanic soils. This area has been called the “Scotland of Africa”. The hills are clad in heather and bracken, but botanically they are more closely related to the Fynbos (fine bush) of South Africa’s Western Cape Province than the Highlands of Scotland.

The smallholder farmers of Mbeya are making some headway in the coffee industry, with more and more coffees that show exotic characteristics in their cup profile.

Uganda Sipi Falls – 3rd fall

Uganda Sipi Falls

The name hails from the local scenic landmark of Sipi Falls. This 3 phase waterfall plunges down the slopes of Mt Elgon – once thought to be the tallest in Africa due to its enormous base, which covers 3,500 square kilometers across Uganda and Kenya.

The locals believe that god lives on Mt. Elgon – far beyond where people venture – and that when he is happy, he delivers rain to the bountiful gardens clinging to the mountainside. Indeed, these green, fertile hillsides are very nearly divine territory for the production of potentially spectacular coffees, and producers are increasingly realizing their potential.

Michael Gehrken – the owner of the farm –  was born in Germany, and along with his wife Tina, have farmed Blackburn estate for over 20 years now. When they took over the farm, Blackburn’s coffee trees were entirely overgrown with vegetation indigenous to this beautiful area on the southern border of the Ngorongoro Crater.  A troop of baboons decided to set up camp in the main house too. They also occasionally roost overnight in the large mature trees at the north-west boundary of the farm and munch on coffee cherries to their delight. Of course, this is not good for business, and Michael frequently attempts to deter the troop – numbering more than a hundred individuals – as best he can.

Sounds like a scene out of ‘Planet of the Apes’, doesn’t it?

A look at the specs

Varietal(s):  Kent & Nyassa
Processing:  Fully washed & dried on African beds
Altitude: 1 760m to 1 950m
Owner: Michael Gehrken
Town: West of Oldeani
Region: Karatu District Country:  Tanzania
Total size of farm: Over 890 hectares
Area under coffee: 75 hectares (16%) 

Tina overseeing the drying stage

Joel and I took a trip to Tanzania a few years ago and visited Michael and Tina at Blackburn Estate for a few days. We explored the farm and operations by day and sipped on cognac on their porch in the evening as Michael told us stories of the early days of his life with Tina at Blackburn Estate.

He cautioned us to not walk around on the farm in the evening as lions would sometimes roam close by. Considering that we were basically on the outskirts of the Ngorongoro Crater, that was definitely possible. And indeed, we could see the multitude of wild beasts roaming the Crater from his front porch during the day.

The Ngorongoro Crater is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the Gehrken’s have set aside 80% of the estate’s land as wildlife preserve . Animals are entirely free to roam beyond the unfenced park boundaries, and lion, buffalo, elephant, leopard and many other species roam through the coffee and forest areas of the farm at night. 

They also regularly build coffee parchment and chili pyres around certain sections of the farm to deter elephants from damaging the coffee plants. Special bio-corridors have also been made to funnel animals away from the growing area.

Conclusion

In the cup expect cacao, red cherry and coconut with a syrupy body and mellow grape-like acidity. Pressurized brews work best- Mokapot, Espresso and Aeropress.

Until next time.

We were able to purchase two different varieties from Fazenda Passeio to taste side by side. Bourbon and Icatu. They are both Natural Processed coffees. In this style, processing flavour is generally highlighted, whereas with washed coffees genetic traits can be more easily identified. Nonetheless we wanted to know what the difference is.

I was fortunate to be able to visit Fazenda Passeio on my trip to Brazil last year October.

A look at the specs

Varietal(s): 100% Bourbon
Processing:  Natural
Altitude: 1 100 – 1 200 metres above sea level
Owner: Adolfo Henrique Vieira Ferreira
Town: Alfenas
Region:  Minas Gerais
Total size of farm:  130 hectares
Area under coffee: 130 hectares

Bourbon

The Bourbon variety was introduced to Brazil around 1860, and from there rapidly spread north into other parts of South and Central America. Bourbons will taste different depending on where it is grown.  African bourbons are generally more fruity and acidic. Central and South American bourbons seem to be less fruity and less acidic, with the cup showing an emphasis on more sweetness associated aroma compounds like chocolate, honey, marzipan, maple syrup, etc.

Bourbon is one of the highest quality varieties that I’ve ever encountered and is an absolute pleasure to roast and analyze as the different aspects of the cup-profile can be more clearly defined.

Icatu

Icatú was first developed in Brazil and is known for its high productivity and good disease resistance. Originally developed in 1985, it was only officially released in 1993 by the Instituto Agronômico de Campinas (IAC) in Campinas Brazil and has become widespread within the country since that time.

Icatu has a bit of a complicated genetic lineage. It is an Arabica- Robusta hybrid back crossed with Mundo Novo and Caturra. Simply the word robusta is enough to make some specialty coffee enthusiasts shudder, but actually, hybrids like these are still classified as Arabica due to its chromosome count and various other features. Farmers are increasingly adopting the use of disease and pest resistant varieties  as climate change ensues. Fungal and insect pathogens like coffee leaf rust(CLR) and coffee berry disease (CBD) are two of the greatest afflictions farmers have to endure.

We haven’t had much experience with isolated Icatu, which is one of the reasons we bought these two varieties at the same time to taste side- by side.

Preliminary results seem to indicate heavier associated flavour notes- compared to it’s Bourbon counterpart.

Conclusion

Bourbon – Dates, Black Grape, Cloves, slightly tangy and syrupy.
Icatu – Rum and raisin, fig, allspice, mellow acidity and slightly sticky mouthfeel.

What would you choose?

I’ll surprise you all and reveal that I actually prefer Icatu in this instance. This comparison has certainly reminded me to always keep an open mind. And of course, with coffee- I encourage you all to do the same. 

Until next time.