New Release: Guatemala Finca Concepción Pixcayá – Cup Of Excellence Lot#24

Finca Concepcion Pixcayá was founded in 1926 by Sr. Carlos Mirón Armas and Sra. Maria Muñoz de Mirón. The farm’s current owner, Sr. Manuel Zaghi Mirón is the fourth generation […]

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Finca Concepcion Pixcayá was founded in 1926 by Sr. Carlos Mirón Armas and Sra. Maria Muñoz de Mirón. The farm’s current owner, Sr. Manuel Zaghi Mirón is the fourth generation of his family to work this land, and he runs the farm with the help of his mother, Maria Mirón de Zaghi.

The farm avoids herbicides and makes its own organic fertilizer, prepared from macadamia parchment, corn cane and other waste products from the farm’s agricultural processes. All water used in processing during the harvest season is reused and then, at the end of the day, moved into dedicated tanks to filter out the solid material, which is then used in composting. The farm has five big tanks to collect rain water for use in processing during the harvest season (which drops during the dry season in the region). The farm has recently undertaken bee cultivation on a protected part of the farm for environmental reasons, and reforestation is of high importance to Manuel.

A quick look at the specs

Varietal(s):  100% Bourbon
Processing:  Fully washed & sun dried on patios
Altitude: 1 900 meters above sea level
Owner: Manuel Zaghi Mirón and his mother Maria Cristina Mirón de Zaghi
Town: San Juan, Sacatepéquez
Region:  Antigua
Total size of farm:  149.65 hectares
Area under coffee: 22.68 hectares
Prizes: 2011: #20 Guatemala COE; 2012: #10 Guatemala COE; 2015:  #15 Guatemala COE; 2017:  #24 Guatemala COE

Mr. Manuel Zaghi Mirón
The Bourbon Variety

Various coffee varieties have been trialled at Concepción Pixcayá over the years, but ultimately Manuel and his forefathers concluded that the traditional Bourbon variety offers the best cup- quality. Bourbon is more susceptible to pests and diseases than most other varieties used in Guatemala and consequently, this is why the family have limited the land that they plant under coffee- to be able to tend to Bourbon’s needs more effectively. The farm is replanted from specially selected seeds from the best coffee trees within the farm and each tree is given exacting attention.

The Antigua Region

Antigua is likely Guatemala’s best-known and arguably one of the highest quality coffee producing regions . Rich volcanic soil, low humidity, a great deal of sun, and cool nights characterize the region and make for some of Guatemala’s finest coffees. The valley around the town of Antigua (from which the region gets its name) is surrounded by three volcanoes: Agua, Fuego, and Acatenango. Every once in a while, Fuego —one of Guatemala’s three active volcanoes— adds a new layer of mineral-rich ash to Antigua’s soil.

Conclusion

In the cup, expect cherry, macadamia nut and cinnamon. This coffee is fairly versatile, probably due to the use of the bourbon variety. An award winning, single, high quality variety, wet processed for maximum genetic expression from (arguably) one of the highest quality producing regions.

Until next time.

New Release: Mexico Municipio Huatusco – Cup of Excellence Lot#3

This is a very high ranking Cup of Excellence awarded coffee. As with all CoE coffees, they are processed with the greatest care and attention to detail the farmer and […]

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This is a very high ranking Cup of Excellence awarded coffee. As with all CoE coffees, they are processed with the greatest care and attention to detail the farmer and his team can muster. Lot number in name of the coffee designates position placed in the competition. With all CoE coffees, one must remember that prices can vary quite a bit when comparing different countries against each other.

A quick look at the specs-
Producer Organisation: COORPROVER
Varietal: Typica
Processing:  Fully washed & dried on patios
Altitude: 1 500 + meters above sea level
Owner: Small holder farmers Town: Various
Region:  Huatusco, Veracruz
Average farm size: <3 hectares
Prizes: #3 Cup of Excellence, 2017 | #1 Cup of Excellence, 2015

This COE winning lot was produced by smallholder farmer members of Coordinadora de Productores de la Zona Centro del Estado de Veracruz (COORPROVER), based in Huatusco, Veracruz, Mexico.

Farmers belonging to the group farm coffee high in the mountainous areas of Veracruz, where the cool climatic conditions and soil composition are perfect for the production of excellent, specialty – grade coffee. Farmer members are taught best practices, including fertilization methods and plague controls using only organic inputs.

Typica drying on patio

Typica drying on patio

About the Typica variety

Typica is pretty much the grand daddy of most varieties in Central and South America. Bourbon would take second place. Typica has a very good complexity potential and is generally quite approachable, fairly sweet( but not as much as Bourbon), mild but interesting acidity ,and flavour notes vary quite a bit based on where it is grown.  My impression here of Typica is based on all the wet processed Typica variety coffees I’ve tasted from around the world in the last ten years.

Besides Typica, Mexico also produces – Bourbon, Caturra, Mundo Novo, Maragogype, Catimor, Catuai, Garnica, Marsellesa and some others. New varieties are likely to be released over the next few years as farmers battle with the ramifications of climate change.

Too my knowledge, out of these, Typica and Bourbon currently produce the highest cup quality and complexity.

Conclusion

In the cup, expect a candy like sweetness, white peach and orange, with a slightly tangy berry like acidity. Very satisfying as an Aeropress, but also great brewed as Pourover or Siphon.

Excellent clarity in the cup with a high “feel good factor”.

Until next time.

The Importance of Traceability

From my early day visits to the coffee farms, to now, 10 years of learning about this industry and the product we love so much – Coffee. In this industry […]

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From my early day visits to the coffee farms, to now, 10 years of learning about this industry and the product we love so much – Coffee. In this industry we have come to learn so many terms and phases:
from “the age of discovery” to “commercialization”, “secret stimulate leaf” to “the great commodity”, from “the first wave of coffee” to “third wave” now the “fifth wave” and all the other waves in between. A term that has become more and more relevant in the front line of any conversation in the premium coffee trade is TRACEABILITY. Well to know that coffee is not from Italy is not news and almost the whole world knows now.

So as the waves of coffee elevate and surf in the search to maximize the experience of this great product, we evolve with the rest of the world. Today Africans are in the search of recognition, reward, value and every time we demand traceability it is obviously a demanded for quality.

Traceability is – the capability to trace, the ability to verify a story source or location.

On the 26th of November I was given an awesome opportunity – to be Origin Coffee Roasting’s representative on a visit the coffee farms that we purchase our green beans from.

In collaboration with Mercanta, a team of various roasters and members of the coffee association from around the world, headed to the mother land of coffee – Ethiopia. From Addis to Hawasa from Hawasa to various other towns and districts.

The team traveling Ethiopia was:
Paul Haworth
Cera Jung
Junghoon Choi
Eddie Twitchet
Chao Huang
Grant Rattray
And from myself (Jorge Alberto)

We all joined Adham and Phaisel the Owners of Testi – local exporter that owns washing stations farms and cooperatives.

Team in Ethiopia

The team travelling to Ethiopia (photo by Grant Rattray)

We all had various common aspects, being in the same field we all love Coffee, we all agreed that Ethiopia produces great (if not the greatest) coffee, much more we all agreed to join hands and work together in getting farmers to understand that TRACEBILITY is crucial.

When we segregate humans, humanity loses. With coffee from farmers, roasters and baristas the idea is to eliminate variables. The ECS (Ethiopian Coffee Specialty) use to be the center point and the end point of all coffee trade in Ethiopia. The idea was to protect the farmers from brutal exports and perhaps the quality and the national coffee brand, but unfortunately this caused mixing of coffees according to grades and limited the information of the source of each all coffees from Ethiopia.

When ECS use to be sole trader of the coffee in Ethiopia, no one was able to deal directly with farmers, their details were lost in the attempt to simplify the operation. Well that does not favor us, the roasters. We benefit a lot from the information from farmers’ coffee processing or practices, farmers’ profile location, altitude and coffee varietals. Companies and people around the world like us too also care, not only that the farmers get their worth, but that we can interact with the farmers directly and demand from each other more or better practices such as consistence of quality.

Where we are born is the foundation of our identity and that is what the traceability of coffee does – allows us to identify Coffees Farmers Location who can then be rewarded for their work. ECS now operates as a central lab store and trade processor. Farmers, exporters and co-ops can now trade their coffees directly with purchasers but ECS is responsible for determining or confirming that all is done correctly to preserve the quality and make sure standards of specialty are practiced. The farmer will then be given the opportunity to recollect their coffee for exports or to give ECS the power to trade for them. A great part of this change by ECS is the fact that the identities of the coffee are now preserved – my farm, my trees, my varietals, my practices, my recognition says the Farmer. And the farmer should rightly always be able to say so.

Traceability is very important to myself and Origin. All of the coffees we roast, pour and sell are traceable, and we have focused on this from day one. In the future myself and Origin hope to see more companies and people in the coffee industry focus on traceability.

New Coffee Release: Rwanda BUF cafe Peaberry

The title ‘Buf’ derives from ‘Bufundu’, the former name of the region in which its washing stations are located. We have been been buying from Buf café for many years […]

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The title ‘Buf’ derives from ‘Bufundu’, the former name of the region in which its washing stations are located. We have been been buying from Buf café for many years now and we continue to taste improvements in their coffee. For a detailed write up – click here.

A quick look at the specs-

Varietal(s): Red Bourbon
Processing:  Fully washed & sun dried on raised beds
Altitude:  Washing Station 1 743 masl
Owner: Epiphanie Mukashyaka
Town: Between Butare and Cyangugu
Region:  Kamegeri Sector, Nyamagabe District of Southern Province
Prizes (all washing stations): 2008, #7, #18 & #23 COE Rwanda  2011, #23 & #36 COE Rwanda 2012, #7, #12 & #19 COE Rwanda  2014, #14 & #24 COE Rwanda

Rwanda BUF Cafe

Rwanda BUF Cafe – African beds

Peaberry? What the heck is that?

Peaberry is a reference to a bean grade given to beans that are small and rounded. Peaberry’s occur in about 5% of any given crop of coffee. It’s a deformity of the cherry. Instead of the cherry having two halves, it has one rounded seed.

The distinction of this variety is a little vague at the moment compared to it’s non Peaberry counterpart and a definitive falvour difference can seem somewhat esoteric.

I’ve actually come to the conclusion that the difference is only minor. But of course, when you compare it to a much larger bean grading, then you’ll likely taste the difference more clearly.

The difference for me has always been noticeable in the acidity.

Coffee Drying - Rwanda BUF Cafe

Coffee Drying at Buf Cafe Nyarusiza

Red Bourbon

The correct pronounciation for this varietal is ‘Boor- Bone’. Bourbon is commonly grown in many central and east African countries. It’s original habitat was Île Bourbon (an island in the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar, now known as Réunion). The French brought it from Yemen to the island of Reunion. They are susceptible to all major diseases and pests, making it more difficult to maintain for farmers.[Source- www.scaa.org]

You’ll come across different sub varieties of Bourbon at some point in time if you haven’t already. They’ll have different flavour characteristics, as you can imagine. In this case, you’ll find the red variety to be the most prolific in Central and East Africa.

Bourbon has such versatility from a roasters perspective, but also through brewing.

Bourbon’s clarity in the cup, granted processing is performed properly, allows you to experience any dramatic changes you might make in the brewing process more efficiently.

In other words- if you decide to change up the brew water temperature to modulate the acids, it will be easier for you to assess and enjoy the results.

Stay tuned for a varietal ranking which I’ll post at some point soon.

Conclusion

A rare grading, superior genetics, optimum terroir and immaculate processing make this coffee a pleasure to work with. We have more Rwandan Coffees already en route to Cape Town, so keep your eyes peeled for these Red Bourbon treats.

 

Until next time.

Brazil – Seven Farms in Seven days

It’s interesting how we, as seemingly infallible humans, judge, form opinions and then solidify them as truth as if this is what we were meant to do. It Kind of […]

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It’s interesting how we, as seemingly infallible humans, judge, form opinions and then solidify them as truth as if this is what we were meant to do. It Kind of makes you wonder how much free will we really have.
What I’m trying to say is…
Brazil was close to the bottom of my list for coffee producing countries. But not anymore.
It’s difficult to fully understand something unless you’ve physically experienced it. Mercanta– our green coffee suppliers organized an enlightening journey for some of there global clients, where I got the opportunity to meet producers we’ve been buying from for many years as well as some new producers.
This is a brief account of my exploration of Minas Gerais, Brazil’s largest coffee producing State.

Fazenda Inglatera

Fazenda Inglatera

Fazenda Inglatera

Varietal: Bourbon, Canario and Others.
Processing: Natural and Pulped Natural.
Altitude: 950- 1,300 masl.
Owner: Stephen L Hurst.
Town: Pocos De Caldas.
Region: Sul De Minas.
Size of Farm: 65 hectares.
Area under coffee: 8 hectares.

Fazenda Inglaterra( translates to England) is owned by Stephen Hurst- the founder of Mercanta. The farm had been abandoned by the previous owners and Stephen had to replant from scratch There is a forest area close to his main lot which he plans to experiment in by planting new varieties. A diverse ecology and ample shade cover should add another dimension to this already interesting coffee, which we hope to buy next year, so stay tuned for that.

Fazenda Cachoeira Da Grama

Fazenda Cachoeira Da Grama

Fazenda Cachoeira Da Grama

Varietal: Canario & Bourbon.
Processing: Natural & Pulped Natural.
Altitude: 1100- 1500 masl.
Owner: Carvalho Family.
Town: Sao Sebastiao da Grama( Sao Paolo)
Region: Alta Mogiana.
Size of Farm: 417 hectares.
Area under coffee: 165 hectare.

This is one of the pioneering farms in Brazil, particularly with regards to experimentation with various yeast strains in processing. They are currently experimenting with around 30 different yeast strains and its effects in processing on different varieties. I’m really keen to get hold of these experiments. Never fear folks. We buy from Fazenda Cachoeira Da Grama often.

Fazenda Piedade - Brazil

Fazenda Piedade

Fazenda Piedade

Varietal: Mundo Novo, Acaia, Catucai, Acaua Novo & Arara.
Processing: Pulped Natural.
Altitude: 900- 1200 masl.
Owner: Olga Maria Ferreira Tavares and Family.
Town. Campestre.
Region. Sul De Minas.
Size of Farm. 634 hectares.
Area under coffee. 272 Hectares.

Helio Godoy Tavares, a civil engineer had his path change from a busy city life to more of a pastoral existence when he inherited his grandfathers farm. He fell in love with the green hills of Sul de Minas and decided then to leave behind his old life and dedicate himself completely to coffee production. Inspired by their fathers passion, all three of Helio’s children.( one son and two daughters) decided to study agronomy. Helio sadly passed in 1999 and ownership of the farm went to his widow. Olga’s kids devotedly help her with the management in honour of their father.

Fazenda Passeio - Brazil

Fazenda Passeio

Fazenda Passeio

Varietal: Topazio, Bourbon, Rubi, Icatu, Catuai & others.
Processing. Pulped Natural and Natural.
Altitude. 1100- 1200 masl.
Owner. Adolfo Henrique Viera Ferreira.
Town. Alfenas.
Region. Sul de Minas.
Size of Farm. 130 hectares.
Area under coffee. 130 hectares.

Adolfo has been president of the BSCA( Brazil Specialty Coffee Association) for a number of years now- who are mainly involved in the promotion of Brazilian specialty coffee. He is currently running trials on an experimental lot with 40 new varieties, some of which I managed to taste while there- He also has an experimental lot where he’s introduced a particular strain of mycorhizzal fungi into the soil. Mycorhizzal fungi are known to have a symbiotic relationship with plants by optimizing nutrient uptake. This is the first farm I’ve heard of who is experimenting with this. Very exciting indeed!

Fazenda Mariana

Fazenda Mariana

Fazenda Mariana

Varietal: Catuai, Mundo Novo, Bourbon & Tupi.
Processing: Natural & Pulped Natural.
Altitude: 980 Masl.
Owner: Manoel Barbosa Juqueira.
Town: Pocos de Caldas ( Sao Domingos Mountain)
Region: Sul De Minas.
Size of Farm: 80 Hectares
Area under coffee: 60 Hectares.

Mariana has grown to be one of the most respected farms in the Sul De Minas region. They use only the most modern, ecologically sound and socially correct practices and the utmost special care is taken to ensure harmony between man and nature. The environment is always given precedence, no exceptions.
Manoel and his team are some of the most hospitable and respectful people I’ve met. And that certainly carries through into their farm.

Ecoagricola Serra Do Cabral - Brazil

Ecoagricola Serra Do Cabral

Ecoagricola Serra Do Cabral

Varietal: Red Catuai 144 & Yellow Catucai.
Processing: Pulped Natural and Natural.
Altitude: 1100 masl.
Owner: Marcelo and Roberto Flanzer.
Town: Francisco Dumont, Serra Do Cabral.
Region: Chapada de Minas.
Size of Farm: 1500 hectares.
Area under coffee: 342 hectares.

These brothers are true pioneers. And they also completely changed my perspective on Brazilian Coffee.
The farm has mechanical harvesters in play as well as a sophisticated irrigation system. Aerial views of the farm provide imagery akin to crop circles and Evapotranspiration technology is rife throughout the farm- measuring how much water the plants take up and controls irrigation accordingly. They have also collaborated with a local university for the development of a pheromone extract that acts as an attractant for Coffee Berry Borer( a common pest in the coffee industry). This allows them to use minimal if any chemical applications.These are the healthiest coffee trees I’ve seen in my life, it was truly beautiful to behold. The Serra do Cabral is part of the Cerrado biome, with its own particular characteristics, micro-climate and a unique terroir. They are the only farmers currently producing in this somewhat untouched region. You can expect two lots of coffee available to purchase early next year, one of which received a Cup of Excellence award!

Fazenda Samambaia - Brazil

Samambaia – Henrique showing us the Topazio variety

Fazenda Samambaia

Varietal: Catucai, Mundo Novo, Bourbon, Topazio and others.
Processing: Pulped Natural and Natural.
Altitude: 1200 masl.
Owner: Henrique Dias Cambraia
Town: Santo Antonio do Amparo.
Region: Sul De Minas.
Size of Farm: 1025 hectares.
Area under coffee: 617 hectares.

Henrique Dias Cambraia….what a legend. Samambaia has won many awards for its coffee, including the Cup of Excellence. We spent one whole day with Henrique driving around Samambaia, stopping at particular points so that he could let us get up-close and personal with some of his trees. He explained weaknesses and strengths of all the varieties they grow. A very educational part of the trip, for sure. One of the successes of the farm can be attributed to individualized phytosanitary(measures to protect the plants from pests and diseases) controls of the planting fields.

 

Conlcusion

In the years to come- we can expect sweeter, more aromatic and more complex coffees coming out of Brazil. It’s exciting folks.
And you can bet your beans we’ll be getting in on some of that action!
Until next time.

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